Northern and Southern Ionian 2010

Northern and Southern Ionian

This holiday we again decided to sail with Neilson on flotilla, but this time for 2 weeks instead of our normal week. This would allow us to sail in both the North and South Ionian Seas. We had previously sailed in the South Ionian during the course during which, we had made the transition from dinghy sailing to sailing in yachts. During the course we had been able to visit a number of small villages when we eventually joined the flotilla for the last few days of our holiday. The forthcoming two weeks would allow us to see what we had missed before and allow us to sail in the more exposed Northern Ionian where the day sails were on average longer.

Flying from Manchester we arrived in Preveza late on a very wet Sunday afternoon. The heavy rain kept falling all evening and after we had dumped our bags on board our yacht we ate a fairly good meal at one of the local seafront restaurants while water dripped through the canvas roof in to pools on the floor.

Northern Ionian

Monday - Day 1

Nidri to Arnfilochia

Weather - Overcast / Rain – Wind south west force 3 (7 to 10 knots)

By the morning the weather had cleared a bit and patchy blue skies were overhead. At the get together / briefing in the morning we found out that there was only one other boat on our flotilla so along with the lead boat there would only be three yachts – hardly an armada – but small is good!

The other yacht was crewed by a couple from Manchester Stewart and Jo with whom we were to get on well with over the next two weeks.

After buying some provisions we were underway by mid morning. Nikko who was the skipper of the lead boat (and now manages a restaurant in Glasgow) along with his able crew of Olli ( a man with many stories) and Alicia (an American – but nobody’s perfect) would meet us at the entrance to the short sea canal which connects the South and North Ionian Seas early in the afternoon.

We spent the morning sailing the area between Nidri and the entrance to the canal which gave us some nice long reaches and a bit of beating. Meeting up with the lead boat we all headed through the canal and into the Northern Ionian, at which point the wind dropped away to nothing.

The 24 hour weather forecast predicted a storm with force 8 winds would hit the coast later that night so the lead boat decided that we would head into the Ambracian Gulf which is a large inland sea protected by a narrow channel at the port of Preveza.

Our destination, the small town of Arnfilchia was situated well into the inland sea and with no wind we would have to motor all the way. As we passed Preveza, the heavens opened and heavy rain overtook us. The rain would last for the next 48 hrs with only a few sunny periods.

Arriving in Arnfilchia we berthed stern to against the towns harbor wall with the rain bouncing off the ground and sea around us.

Miles sailed - 46

Tuesday – Day 2

Storm bound – remained in Arnfilochia

Weather - Heavy rain – Wind westerly force 8 ish (33knots plus)

The predicted storm arrived overnight, but it had little impact where we were as we were very sheltered and by this time 20 miles or so from the sea. We spent the day exploring the village and surrounding area on foot between rain showers. Looking out to the inland sea we could see the wind on the water – a good decision to stay where we were!

Miles sailed - 0

Wednesday – Day 3

Arnfilochia – Gaios

Weather - Overcast / Rain – Wind westerly force 5/ force 6 (17 to 27 knots)

With the worst of the storm past we headed back towards Preveza and the open sea. With the wind against us and a long day ahead of us all three boats were under motor until we passed Preveza. When we reached the open sea the conditions were still pretty wild and the breaking rollers either side of the dredged channel as we left the Ambracian Gulf were monsters.

Within the channel the deeper waters meant that  at least we did not have breaking seas to content with but the green waves that we were heading into soon had the yacht bucking in great style. Once clear of the shore the waves died down a bit but the swell was still 5 or 6m with white crests – impressive!

Turning North West towards Gaios we had both the seas and the wind on our port quarter which made for a rough sail. With the sails up we battered gamefully onwards and over the next 9 hours sailed 40 miles until we were just outside the small harbor of Gaios on the island of Gallios.

Unfortunately for Kathleen the conditions meant that for the first time on a small boat she was sea sick and spent a fairly miserable time battling with her stomach.

On arrival at Gaios we found the harbor pretty busy as a number of groups of yachts from Sailing Holidays were heading north to their base to overwinter and were taking shelter from the current weather conditions.

When we tied up Kathleen headed off to the local chemist to buy some seasickness tablets. It appeared that she was not the only one feeling unwell that day as the chemist was doing a roaring trade in seasickness tablets and offered them to Kathleen before she could even say what she wanted!

Miles sailed - 61

Thursday – Day 4

Gaios to Lakka

Weather - Overcast – Wind westerly force 3 (7 to 10 knots)

After our grueling sail the day before we had a relatively leisurely sail to the small town of Lakka on the northern tip of Gallios. The direct line distance by road is only 5 miles, so we spent a bit of time heading offshore to make the most of the day’s sailing

Miles sailed - 18

Friday – Day 5

Lakka to Gaios

Weather sunshine – Wind westerly Force 3 (7 to 10 knots)

 

As we had lost a day earlier in the week due to being storm bound in Arnfilchia we did not have the time to head further north so after a morning spent exploring the area around Lakka on foot we retraced our previous days sail and headed back to Gaios for the night

Miles sailed - 12

Saturday – Day 6

Lakka – Un named bay

Weather sunshine – Wind westerly Force 3 (7 to 10 knots)

Again another short days sailing was planned so we took a detour to the neighboring island of Antipaxos where we anchored in a small bay and enjoyed a swim, lunch and a bit of reading in the warm afternoon sunshine.

Later we headed back across to the mainland to an un named but sheltered bay where we would stay at anchor that evening

Miles sailed - 18

Sunday – Day 7

Un named bay to Levkas

Weather Overcast / Sunny – Wind Force 3 (7 to 10 knots)

Sunday was the lead crew’s day off so they wanted to set off early in order to get back to Nidri that evening. We would stop however at the marina in Levkas which was on of the larger towns on Kayra and mid point on the canal which joins the North and South Ionian. 

With the wind still in the west we reached all the way to the canal entrance before dropping our sails to go through the canal. Kathleen helmed through the canal and had to contend not only with the opening of the road bridge but with a large cacique which appeared determined to run us down from behind on a number of occasions.

We left the lead boat at the marina and on entering easily found two berths. We then found that we did not have the ships papers as they were on the lead boat. This necessitated Nicco having to come back from Nidri by taxi to sort things out with the port police and the marina manager while we went for dinner in Levkas – so much for his night off!

Miles sailed – 33

Southern Ionian

Monday – Day 8

Levkas to Kalamos

Weather Sunshine / Rain – Wind south west force 2 (4 to 6 knots)

Into the Southern Ionian and hopefully some better weather! Leaving the marina in Levkas around mid morning we headed towards Vathi on the island of Meganisi. Unfortunately the better weather failed to appear and in a dying wind we berthed in the small harbor by early afternoon, the lead crew having just arrived before us. For something to do Kathleen and I walked across the island to the town of Spartochori for a late lunch. It was a nice walk albeit we got a good soaking as the rain came back on with a vengeance!

Miles sailed - 23

Tuesday – Day 9

Kalamos to Vathis

Weather Sunshine – Wind light south west

From Vathi we were heading Kalamos on the island of Kalamos. As we were reaching across the wind we made good time and were again berthed by early afternoon. More walking eschewed and we climbed up through the town to explore the surrounding countryside.

Miles sailed – 26

Wednesday – Day 10

Vathis to Frikes

Weather Sunshine – Wind south west force 2 (4 to 6 knots)

From Frikes we had a uneventful sail to Frikes on the island of Ithaca.

Miles sailed - 14

Thursday – Day 11

Frikes to Fiscardo

Weather Overcast / Sunshine – Wind south west  force 2 (4 to 6 knots)

Leaving Frikes we headed towards Fiscardo on the island of Cephalonia. Cephalonia was the setting for the book and film “Captain Corelli’s Mandolin” . With the choice of sailing around Ithaca clockwise or anti clockwise we chose the shorter anticlockwise route which allowed us to run then reach virtually all the way with the sail on a single tack. This was probably a bit of a cop out as real sailors would no doubt have beaten their way south and gone around Ithaca the longer clockwise route, but we were on holiday and the little town of Fiscardo was meant to be worth seeing.

Fiscardo was all that we had been told it was. Bigger than a lot of the villages we had visited it was full of life and had a pretty and bustling harbor surrounded by unspoiled local buildings.

Miles sailed - 13

Friday – Day 12

Fiscardo to Sivota

Weather Sunshine/ Overcast / Rain – Wind south west – light

Leaving the very picturesque town of Fiscardo we headed north east with a light wind behind us heading to Sivota which would be our last port of call before returning to Nidri. The wind was fluky and we alternated between sailing and motoring. We entered Sivota under grey clouds and as luck would have it a strengthening wind. This was the last sailing weekend of the season for Neilson and already most of the other yachts belonging to other companies were being taken out of the water or had headed north to their home bases. We were virtually the only three yachts in the harbor apart from some local boats which presumably staid there throughout the year.

With all the local shops shut for the season, Nicco had arranged in advance for a single restaurant to stay open that evening. With the seven of us as their only customers we sat under cold cloudy skies for our last dinner of the flotilla.

Miles sailed - 13

Saturday – Day 13

Sivota to Nidri

Weather Sunshine – Wind south west - light

The sun came out for our last day. The Lead Boat headed off early as the crew would get the afternoon off if they got back in time. We left mid morning after an unsuccessful walk to find a shop which was open and which had bread. We did not find an open shop let alone bread. The local mini-market was empty and the staff were loading the shelves into the back of a truck. How shut is that???

With only 10 miles to go and with a light southwesterly wind we sailed to a nearby bay were we swam and ate what food was left on board for lunch. All too soon it was time to up anchor and head back to Nidri.

Miles sailed - 10

Sunday – Day 14

Leaving the boat at 9am we dumped our bags in the hotel and walked to some recommended waterfalls outside of town. The falls were fairly dry and a combination of handrails and stone pathways allowed us to climb a good way up them – probably just as well there was little water.

After going for lunch we spent the rest of the afternoon in or around Nidri before getting the transfer bus back to the airport in the evening.

Total Miles sailed - 287